Starfish Brasserie: Inspiring, Sustainable, and Delicious

The Philosophy

Very few restaurants in the Lehigh Valley specialize in sustainable seafood-centric menus, a farm-to-table policy, and boast a fantastic bar area and drinks to boot.

Starfish Brasserie, located at the intersection of Broad and Guetter Streets on Bethlehem’s North Side, is that restaurant. The menu includes local ingredients at all possible opportunities, and the menu changes almost daily based on availability and the inspiration of head Chef, Kristofor Sandholm. 

Overfishing is becoming another contemporary global issue, which means that by calling themselves a sustainable seafood restaurant, Starfish has pledged to serve you quality seafood but of the kinds that are not endangered. Couple this policy with the farm-to-table tag and you’ve got yourself fine meal of well-treated food.

The Bait

A few weeks ago, I was thrilled to hear from Kris via Starfish on Twitter @Starfish_PA regarding a review opportunity. In exchange for a meal, I would do a review of the Starfish Brasserie restaurant. The opportunity was attractive to me for many obvious reasons, chief among them the fact that I had never been to Starfish but I had heard a lot about it recently. 

The Hook
My friend and I arrived at about 6 o'clock on a Wednesday, and three hours later, left happily satisfied. True to all that I had heard, the menu was fresh, farm-to-table, and a one-of-a-kind menu that not even the next day's customers would try.

For example, it's not every restaurant that features an olive oil of the day. Ours was a red pepper, garlic, and tomato infused olive oil that came with delicious bread (soft, fluffy inside and crust with a crunch). 

Next came the amuse-bouche (literally translated to mouth amuser) that consisted of a tortilla crisp topped with kalamata olive tapenade, a cherry tomato slice, and a mussel. I enjoyed the combination of these flavors, but I think it could improve even more with a tortilla more on par with the other ingredients. 

This is a good time to introduce our server, Mike, who was handling the many tables in the main dining room but took excellent care of us. He made good recommendations and was honest where he hadn’t tried things. After all, the menu does change daily. 

After consulting with Mike, we ordered three appetizers that piqued our interest. While Starfish clearly offers the standard shrimp cocktail and scallops, I was drawn to a few more inspiring appetizer choices. After all, how could I resist a salmon cake with asian noodles, smoked mackerel and artichoke hearts, and shrimp-stuffed grape leaves?

Grape Leaves Stuffed with Cous Cous
with a Pickled Beet Side

My favorite of those three was absolutely the smoked mackerel and artichoke hearts. The tart artichoke hearts had been marinated by red and white wine vinegar, creating a beautiful color pallete made more delicious with the perfectly flavored smoked pepper-encrusted mackerel. It was an incredibly simple dish but ingenious in its flavor combinations, a trait I’d say ran across most of Starfish’s fare.

Smoked Mackerel with
Marinated Artichoke Hearts and Arugula

Chef Sandholm also sent out another appetizer for us to try: Spanish octopus medallions threaded over a small skewer, resting on a bed of Mediterranean-inspired bulgar with parsley, red onion, scallion, and tomato. The octopus was absolutely cooked to perfection and lightly barbecue flavored, the bulgar slightly bitter by contrast.

Roasted Octopus served over
Mediterranean Bulgar Salad

The Entrees

The duck dish that my friend ordered was exactly the kind of meal I cook for myself regularly: a meat with sides of quinoa and red swiss chard. For this reason, I was less intrigued to order it but I was happy to sample duck, my favorite fowl.

That being said, my friend who has only recently been introduced to quinoa and swiss chard absolutely loved this dish. There’s a good reason why I can’t live without those ingredients. The duck was tender and the sauce was brilliant.

Duck with Quinoa and Red Swiss Chard

And for my entree, the trout served over red and white quinoa and beet medallions, accompanied by a carrot puree sauce. The trout was buttery but not heavy, and the skin was pleasantly crunchy and salty.

The trout and the beet medallions (that I presume were boiled) complemented one another like Thanksgiving turkey and cranberry sauce. The carrot sauce was an ingenious addition to the flavors and the nuttiness of the quinoa balanced all of the above. What a combination bite. 

Trout over Beet Medallions,
Quinoa, and Carrot Sauce

It is interesting to note the variety of beets we tried throughout the evening. I'm sure this is partially because beets are very much in season in Pennsylvania this time of year. We tried the chef’s beets in a few forms: shaved and pickled with the grape leaves and then with the trout, both were flavored nicely. 

Sweet Endings

The only way I’ve found effective to describe the chocolate basil cake is to compare it to the combination of chocolate and cayenne. In both cases, there is an evident hint of spice that lingers after the bite, but with the basil there isn’t the heat, simply the spice. Mike told us that the batter has a much stronger basil flavor but when it cooks the basil adapts to a nice, subtle role.

The chocolate bar was like a cappuccino in solid form. Decadent yet rich, not overpoweringly sweet, and accompanied on the plate by elegantly painted sauces: a raspberry coulis, strawberry coulis, and cinnamon-flavored crème anglaise that reminded me of eggnog. The dishes were well crafted and beautifully plated on rather posh flatware.

Chocolate Basil Cake
and Decadent Chocolate Bar

Spirits

The evening cannot be summarized without a bow to the bartender. We sampled two of Starfish’s martinis, both spot-on suggestions by Mike. I first tried the White Cosmopolitan and my friend the Pomegranate-Mint martini.

The White Cosmopolitan was tasty and richly flavored. The Pomegranate Mint martini was refreshing and tart, with small mint flakes blended throughout, the kind of drink I’d have a hard time choosing between if it were up against Mojito on a hot, summer evening. Maybe both, I’d be willing to bet Starfish’s bartenders would make a good Mojito as well. 

The Starfish website also points out that they won the 2009 Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence for their wine offerings.

Ambiance

At about 7:30 we heard the first chords of the live pianists’ performance from the bar. By the time we left around 9:15, a pleasant cacophony of piano, light drumming, and the sounds of the crowd that had gathered played in the bar area. 

It was clear that many people frequent Starfish on such nights to listen to live music and indulge on any of Starfish’s delicious cocktails, wine, and beer. We resolved to return at the bar at some point, which has a fantastic array of materials and colors in its lively décor. The quaint bar under dangling lights is surrounded by booths and small tables that enjoy the giant picture window view of Broad Street.

The Verdict

I would say that one of the things that impressed me most about Starfish is the Chef’s clear ability and experience with seafood. Everything we had was cooked to perfection, which is difficult to achieve with some of the particular fish and meat we sampled. Above all, none came near the feared “fishy” taste that can discourage many people from even trying seafood.

I also appreciate Chef Kristofor Sandholm's ability to create new dishes every day and understand his zest for innovating upon dishes and flavors. Keep on, but I hope near versions of some of my favorites from that meal are present on the menu the next time I return, for I certainly will. 

Consider me baited and hooked.

To see their menu and keep track of the nightly promotions, specials, and events: http://www.starfishbrasserie.com/


Starfish has an inviting interior atmosphere that sometimes you can't see from the outside. I found this video helpful in getting a little preview of the Starfish experience.

The final thing I'll say is that I'm more than happy to do a review of this type for any other restaurant that offers! It's a win-win. Contact me at imani.hamilton@gmail.com or on Twitter: @imanihamilton

Go Local With Your Cuisine: Groceries, Restaurants, and Lifestyle

www.buylocalpa.org

I found this website today and wanted to share it because it makes it easy to find fresh, local food in the Lehigh Valley. 

Support the farm-to-table movement, restaurants and retailers that offer food from within 100 miles, and most importantly, your local economy.

Sound like a lot? It's not, this site makes it easy: http://www.buylocalpa.org/lehighvalley 

The site will help you locate retailers, restaurants, farmers' markets, wineries, breweries, and the originators: farms that offer local Lehigh Valley food.

Want to learn more about the farm-to-table movement? 

http://www.farmtotableonline.org/

Question: Why eat food from within 100 miles? 

http://100milediet.org/

Answer: To be a localvore: 

http://www.thedailygreen.com/living-green/definitions/Localvores-Localtarians

And from FoodRoutes.org, how to accomplish this: 

http://www.FoodRoutes.org/howtobuylocal.jsp

Tulum: Beth-Mex Burritos, Tacos, and More

Some days, there's nothing better than a Tulum Burrito.

Available in burrito and minirrito sizes, Tulum offers creative and fresh combinations of ingredients in their burritos.

All of Tulum's burritos include a choice of chicken, beef, pork, mahi-mahi, or grilled vegetables.

Tulum's veggie burritos are the best of their kind, and include sweet and new potatoes, kale, grated beets, and guacamole in addition to other standard grilled vegetables.

My very favorite, the Mayan burrito (pictured left), which I order veggie to get the ingredients stated above also includes: grilled pineapple salsa, roasted corn, and slices of avocado, plus Tulum's burrito standards of rice, black beans, cheddar, "Pico de Gallo, crema, and a crisp tropical salad."

Their menu also includes the Beth-Mex with smokey red sauce, the Verde with green sauce of tomatillo and chiles, Mole with almonds and bittersweet Mexican chocolate, Santana with sweet and new potatoes, Midnight Sun breakfast burrito with eggs and home fries, the Wingaritto with Wing Sauce and Blue Cheese dressing, and the Oaxacan Chorizo Burrito with fresh Mexican sausage and Oaxacan cheese.

Tulum also offers tacos, Beth-Mex wings, Chicharon de Queso, Guacamole, Nachos, Quesadillas, and the Mahi-Mahi Taco. Let's not forget the copious amounts of hot sauce varieties and options available on their counter to add to your selection in any combination or amount.

BYOB and either limited indoor seating or a nice back yard on a good day make it a good place to go with others as well. Monday-Friday 11-9pm, Saturday noon-9, and closed Sunday. Click here for the menu.

All this being said, I would definitely consider Tulum to be one of Bethlehem's institutions.

Sampling Lehigh Valley Craft Beer at OctoberPreneurFest

http://www.fireislandbeer.com

On a last-minute whim and the encouragement of a few friends, I joined a group of Lehigh students, craft beer entrepreneurs, and Lehigh's Baker Institute for Entrepreneurship at Bethlehem Brew Works last night for "OctoberPreneurFest."

The evening's tag line was essentially come to a craft beer tasting and mingle with the people behind the beer, the entrepreneurs who started their own local craft beer breweries. The first 50 people to register entered free, the rest of us paid $5 at the door and found it well worth it. Not only did entry guarantee a fine sampling of beer, but Brew Works also provided an appetizer bar of especially tasty bruschetta and make-your-own nachos. The event was held in the Brew Works' basement bar and lounge: the Steelgaarden, which could not have been a more perfect setting for the small crowd there.

Each guest received a two sided card with three beers from the Fire Island Beer Company on one side, and four of the Brew Works' beers on the other, each name equating to a sample from the bar. A surprise guest, the maker of an Arctic Ale, also brought some of his beer to be sampled. The Arctic Ale was actually my favorite, although I really enjoyed the variety of other beer offerings: light, dark, amber, oatmeal, red, you name it.

The beer entrepreneurs were wandering around the room, dressed casually and sipping on beer with students and other brewers, and occasionally giving short speeches prompted by a Baker Institute student representative. We learned about how the local movement is encouraging the patronage of craft beers, the challenges in getting on beer taps and staying there, and the importance of creating a brand and situational association with a particular beer. The following are a couple of highlights:

Chris Bowen, the maker of the Arctic Ale spoke about his theory that consumers are increasingly looking for beer with a story. One beer story that inspired him was about Allsop's Arctic Ale, which Canadian arctic explorers took in heaping amounts for sustenance on the Northwest Passage. Consequently, he is making a documentary journey on motorcycles to collect more of the story and eventually re-create the original recipe of the Allsopp's Ale on the Hudson/James Bay. The documentary (to be released in summer or fall 2011) website: http://www.arcticalchemy.com/

Bethlehem Brew Works owner, one of the Fegley brothers, spoke about their early pioneering of the local craft beer movement. He spoke about the economic turmoil and listlessness of the Bethlehem community in the wake of the Bethlehem Steel collapse, which was the local environment at the time they opened on the corner of Main and Broad Streets in 1998. The Bethlehem Brew Works was intended to be a brewery and quality restaurant (which was a very important part of their identity) for Bethlehem families and individuals to identify with. I'd say they've been successful.

All around great, unexpected turn for my Monday night. Support your local breweries!

Weekly Special: Thursdays at the Bethlehem Farmers' Market

Every Thursday in the fall and spring, Lehigh University's Campus Square is turned into a little fair of local farmers, kettle corn vendors, bakers and breadmakers, and even artisans of hand-knit woolen items. This opportunity for purchasing produce, sampling delicious baked goods, and perusing other products is the Bethlehem Farmers' Market and is absolutely a weekly specialty. Vendors set up tents and tables from 12-4 in the afternoon, drawing students and local Bethlehem residents alike.

I began my patronage last year as a senior while living off-campus and cooking for myself almost daily. In my hometown Durham, North Carolina, many families have supported, for many years, a farmers' market which is growing in scope and selection to accommodate the increasing desire for fresh, seasonal, local produce. I was raised to appreciate these Saturday outings, delighting over heirloom tomatoes or peaches that are so ripe they beg to be tasted at the earliest possible opportunity.

Plus, shopping the Farmers' Market supports local farmers, and the local food movement is here to stay. Despite tough economic times, people are still supporting Farmers' Markets, in part because many recognize that it takes a committed clientele to keep such vulnerable business owners afloat. Furthermore, in the face of increasing hype around reducing our carbon footprints, it's just plain "green," which is enough to validate anything these days. (Local produce doesn't travel as far to reach you, reducing the amount of gas used to transport it, reducing carbon emissions.)

People wouldn't pay the prices if it wasn't worth the trip; like produce sections with a face and a story behind every vegetable, human contact and mutual culinary delight abound. As pleased as shoppers are to be purchasing beautiful seasonal produce, farmers are equally proud of, literally, the fruits of their efforts. I have routinely found attendants on the other side of the stand not only willing but thrilled to engage in conversation about their favorite recipes, their own farm, or just local events. Just today, the woman from whom I was buying two apples threw in a third from other type that I had mentioned I was deciding between. Establishing a rapport or loyalty to her particular stand is a likely motivation, but I am more than happy to be on the receiving end.

Farmers' markets are engaging, inspiring, and most importantly, guarantee seasonal quality. As we left the Farmers' Market, a friend asked me about what is in season in the spring and I realized it took some thought to respond. In a world where when one region's produce ends its season and produce from halfway around the world can restock and replace it, we forget that certain foods are meant for a specific season. I'm not complaining about the fact that I can find tomatoes all year round, but I enjoy the Farmers' Market for reminding me what is suited for this particular season. These vegetables were not picked green and ripened in their cross-country trip, they were plucked off their stems because they were ready for your next weekly special.